Traces of an Ancient Pueblo on the Road to Abiquiu

Two or three miles before you reach Abiquiu, NM, heading north on Highway 84, you’ll see a U.S. Forest Service parking lot on your left. Take the time to stop — it’s the jumping off place for a really great hike into ancient pueblo history.

The mesa top 150 ft above the parking lot is the site of Poshuouinge, the ruins of a large pueblo likely occupied from about 1375 to 1475 and abandoned well before the Spanish ever arrived in the area we know as New Mexico.

A trail leaves the parking area and switchbacks up the side of the mesa then sets off across the wide flat area, skirting the actual site of the pueblo. Multiple signs warn you against hiking into the area the pueblo once occupied.

Poshuouinge interpretive panel

A series of small interpretive panels along the trail describe what the pueblo looked like and what life was like for Poshuouinge residents — based on excavations and artifacts collected during the early 20th century.

Poshuouinge interpretive panel

Continue walking along the main trail. It leads up the hill on the south side of the ruins to a bench and ramada about halfway up. It’s a good vantage point from which to imagine the pueblo’s two large plazas and hundreds of rooms, the gardens outside the walls and down by the river — and all the people.

The trail continues on to the very (very) top of the hill. From the top — a spot that must have been a favorite for lookouts all those centuries ago — the view stretches north across the Rio Chama to the distant mountains. Down below quite clearly is the ghostly outline of the Po-shu ruins.

Poshuouinge pueblo site

Interpreting Miss O’Keeffe

A friendly and knowledgeable docent (in purple) relates the
backstory while visitors soak up the atmosphere and the visuals.

Her paintings are included in the collections of many museums. Biographies have been written chronicling the details of her life and career. Opportunities to learn about the painter Georgia O’Keeffe and her art abound.

Visiting her home and studio — maintained just as she left them — adds another dimension. You can see for yourself how she lived, where she worked, and the little village she chose to make home — just fifteen miles from Ghost Ranch, where she also spent so much time hiking and painting.

O’Keeffe started visiting New Mexico in 1929 — after her artistic career was established — and it wasn’t until 1945 that she bought the property in Abiquiu. Already in her late 50s when she moved permanently to the area she is nevertheless indelibly linked to the landscape of the Southwest.

Simple and spare inside and out, filled with light and style, the house seems rooted to its spot at the edge of the mesa and its place in the history of the pueblo. The big New Mexico sky and landscape spill into the studio through the long plate glass windows that fill the north wall. What you realize is that her art was expressed in everything she did.

A courtyard (left) and part of the garden area (right). A glimpse of the Pueblo de Abiquiu plaza is
just visible beyond the garden.
A lot of people can’t resist picking up interesting rocks — even Georgia O’Keeffe.
The view from the house looking north, with ‘The White Place’ (Plaza Blanca) in the distance
beyond the Rio Chama. Towards the end of March when the acequias begin to run, the fields
will turn green. By the end of April the cottonwoods along the river will have leafed out.
Views of the landscape that inspired the artist are all around — such as the curve of the road
below the house (left) and her beloved Cerro Pedernal (right). The dark-trunked cottonwoods
on the north side of the road mid-frame are also recognizable from one of O’Keefe’s paintings.
LINKS:

Watch the progress of the garden on the Abiquiu webcam.
Find out more about Georgia O’Keeffe.